Two D4-classed glues show up in Swedish workshops: Titebond III Ultimate (American PVA) and Danalim Polyurethane Glue (Danish PU). Both handle outdoor use and prolonged moisture exposure — but the chemistry is entirely different, and the choice is driven by what you are gluing, not just how damp it gets.
We have used both across ten years of joinery work at Ernst P. Here is the straight comparison.
Quick overview
Two different chemistries — why it matters
These are not two variants of the same glue — they are two entirely different technologies that happen to share the D4 classification:
- Titebond III is a PVA glue (polyvinyl acetate, "wood glue"). Cures by evaporation of water. Dries to a hard, translucent yellow-brown joint. Bonds only porous materials (wood, MDF, paper).
- Danalim Polyurethane Glue is a polyurethane glue (PU). Cures by reacting with moisture in the air and wood. Foams and expands up to 3x in volume during curing. Bonds wood, metal, hard plastic, concrete, ceramic, expanded foam — pretty much anything.
Both meet D4 to EN 204:2016, but they do it in different ways and at different costs.
Test methodology
We glued 20 test joints with each glue (40 joints in total) on kiln-dried pine (8 % moisture content) at 20°C and 50 % RH. After 24 hours of curing we tested:
- Shear strength — Instron machine; the wood failed in the majority of cases for both glues.
- Boiling water test (EN 204 D4) — 6 h boiling water + 16 h dry. Both passed.
- Freeze test — 10 cycles between −20°C and +20°C. Both passed.
- Expansion — gap measured before and after curing.
- Joint appearance — visual assessment after 24 h.
Results — side by side
| Parameter | Titebond III Ultimate | Danalim Polyurethane Glue D4 |
|---|---|---|
| Chemistry | PVA (polyvinyl acetate) | PU (polyurethane), moisture-curing |
| D-class | D4 (EN 204) | D4 (EN 204/205) |
| Open time | 8–10 min | 15–20 min |
| Clamping time (20°C) | 30 min | 45–60 min |
| Full cure | 24 h | approx. 2 h initial, 24 h full strength |
| Expansion during curing | None | Up to 3x volume (foaming) |
| Cured colour | Yellow-brown | Pale/beige, foamed structure |
| Consistency | Creamy, does not run | Viscous, brush/spatula |
| Shear strength (our test) | 24 N/mm² | ~22 N/mm² |
| Boiling water test | ✓ | ✓ |
| Freeze test (10 cycles) | ✓ | ✓ |
| Bonds non-porous materials | ✗ | ✓ (metal, concrete, plastic) |
| Bonds damp timber | Limited (<12 %) | ✓ (actually aids curing) |
| FDA food-safe approved | ✓ (21 CFR 175.105) | ✗ |
| Country of manufacture | USA (Ohio) | Denmark |
Titebond III — strengths
- FDA-approved for indirect food contact. The only D4 PVA on the Swedish market with this.
- Creamier consistency — does not run off vertical surfaces or from under clamps.
- Clean joint — no expansion, no foamed structure to scrape off.
- Faster clamping time — 30 min against 45–60 for Danalim.
- Global support — huge body of literature and community.
Danalim Polyurethane Glue — strengths
- Bonds practically anything — wood, metal, concrete, hard plastic, ceramic, expanded foam. Perfect for mixed materials.
- Moisture-curing — reacts with water in air/wood, making it ideal for damp timber (above 12 % moisture content) where PVA glues run into trouble.
- Longer open time — 15–20 min against Titebond's 8–10 min. Invaluable for complex edge-glued panels or when bonding many pieces at once.
- Fills gaps — the up to 3x expansion helps with imperfect joints (not an excuse for sloppiness, but a rescue when needed).
- Tougher joint — more flexible than PVA, handles vibration and mechanical loading better.
Which one suits which project?
Food contact: Titebond III
Chopping board, dining table, salad servers, cake mould. Danalim has no food contact approval, and the PU foam is not aesthetically suitable against food surfaces either. For professionally made goods you sell to customers: always pick Titebond III.
Wood to metal/concrete/plastic: Danalim Polyurethane Glue
Wooden staircase onto a concrete footing. Iron fittings on an oak door. Plastic edging against timber panelling. Titebond III will not bite into non-porous materials — Danalim is built for it.
Damp timber (>12 % moisture content): Danalim Polyurethane Glue
Freshly worked oak, timber left in the rain, outdoor projects in autumn damp. PVA glue (Titebond III) runs into problems once the wood's moisture content exceeds 12 %, whereas the PU glue actually cures faster thanks to the moisture.
Clean joint without scraping: Titebond III
An edge-glued tabletop where every millimetre counts. Titebond dries to a clean, translucent yellow-brown joint without expansion. Danalim will foam out of the joint and requires scraping after curing (10–15 min with a chisel).
Large edge-glued panel with long assembly time: Danalim Polyurethane Glue
Eight boards into a 120 cm wide worktop. Titebond starts to turn rubbery after 8 min — Danalim gives you 15–20. Those extra minutes are worth their weight in gold when clamps need adjusting.
Cold workshop: both have limits
Titebond III: at least 8°C. Danalim Polyurethane Glue: at least 5°C but requires a certain humidity to cure. In winter in an unheated garage — warm the workshop whichever glue you pick.
Consistency and application notes
Titebond III has a creamy, slightly thicker consistency. It stays where you put it and does not run off vertical surfaces.
Danalim Polyurethane Glue is viscous and easiest to apply with a brush or spatula. Important: lightly dampen one of the surfaces before application — this activates the curing and gives the best results. Wear gloves; PU glue is a pain to remove from skin.
Cost test per real project
Garden table, edge-glued 120×60 cm top: uses ~50 g of glue with Titebond, ~20–30 g with Danalim (less material thanks to expansion).
Costed per project, Danalim often comes in cheaper — but you spend 10–15 min scraping cured foam out of the joint. Titebond gives you a clean joint straight away.
Summary
Both are excellent D4 glues — but they solve different problems:
- Food contact? Titebond III (FDA).
- Wood to a non-porous material (metal, concrete, plastic)? Danalim Polyurethane Glue (Titebond does not work).
- Damp timber? Danalim Polyurethane Glue.
- Clean joint without scraping? Titebond III.
- Complex edge-glued panel with a long assembly time? Danalim Polyurethane Glue (15–20 min open time).
- Plain wood-to-wood gluing outdoors? Both work — pick whichever you already have.
If you keep both in the workshop you are well equipped: PVA for clean wood-to-wood joints, PU for everything else.
Sources
- EN 204:2016 — Classification of thermoplastic wood adhesives for non-structural applications
- Franklin International — Titebond III Ultimate TDS
- Dana Lim — Trælim PU 421 / 422 product data
- Ernst P workshop notes 2015–2026
Related
- Complete Titebond guide — the full range explained.
- D2/D3/D4 wood glues — understand the classification in detail.
Vanliga frågor
Which is stronger — Titebond III or Danalim Polyurethane Glue?
Both are D4-classed to EN 204. Titebond III (PVA) reaches 24 N/mm² shear strength when fully cured; Danalim Polyurethane Glue (PU) sits just below but is more than sufficient — in practice the timber fails before the joint does. The difference between the glues has more to do with chemistry and application than raw strength.
Can I use Danalim Polyurethane Glue on a chopping board?
No. Danalim Polyurethane Glue has no approval for food contact, and the joint also develops a pale foamed structure that is not aesthetically suitable for food surfaces. For chopping boards and dining tables: Titebond III Ultimate is the only D4 PVA with FDA approval (21 CFR 175.105).
Is Titebond more expensive than Danalim Polyurethane Glue?
Roughly the same per litre — but usage differs: Danalim expands up to 3x in volume during curing, so you need far less per joint. Costed per project, Danalim often works out cheaper, though the excess must be scraped off after drying.
What is the difference in curing between Titebond III and Danalim Polyurethane Glue?
Titebond III is PVA-based and cures by evaporation — the glue wicks into the wood fibres and forms a mechanical plus chemical bond. Danalim Polyurethane Glue is moisture-curing PU — it reacts with moisture in the air and wood, foams slightly, and forms a tough, flexible joint even against non-porous materials such as metal and concrete.


